Rizal's Diary from Dapitan to Barcelona, 1896

15. Dapitan to Barcelona

31 July to 6 October 1896

64 Days without touching land

I left Dapitan at midnight, Friday, 31 July 1986.

The day before, in the morning, a few moments after the arrival of the mail in the steamer España, I received a message from the Politico-Military Commander, who wished to see me. He handed me a letter of His Excellency, Governor General Ramón Blanco y Erenas, dated 1^st July, which said that my petition or application to go to the Island of Cuba as a temporary physician had been approved by the Government. In fact, in view of the shortage of military physicians in Cuba and at the suggestion of a friend, [Ferdinand Blumentritt – rly] I offered my services as a physician, first in a personal letter to the Governor General and afterwards in a formal application dated 18 December 1895. In truth, I have already given up on the idea of going to Cuba. In the month of April the district governor advised me that my petition had been denied and for this reason I started various projects to improve my situation. I began by devoting myself to the cultivation of my land, planting maize and palay [rice]. I was building a boat which I intended to engage in inter-island shipping, with a capacity of some 300 cavanes of rice, more or less. I changed the floor of my house with good wood; and I began the construction of a hospital or sanitarium to house the sick who came from different islands of the Archipelago and were invading even my own house. Thus, the letter of His Excellency, which a few months before would have filled me with joy and caused me no inconvenience, now produced on me a sweet-sour effect: It was like a desired dish which was offered after the dessert. It is true that the letter did not say that I should depart but “if I still persisted in my idea (of going to Cuba), the governor was authorized to give me a pass to Manila and from there I would be allowed to go to the Peninsula where the Minister of War will designate the corps which I should join.” I was appointed physician in the Military Corps of Health.

Informed of the contents of the letter, I immediately said that I would not be able to depart until the second trip of the boat because I had to collect some debts and sell some of my belongings. The Politico-Military Governor and I agreed that I would write His Excellency about this and he would send my letter before 4:00 o’clock p.m. of the same day, enclosing it in his letter.

Upon my return home I informed my family of the news. My sister N. (Narcisa) received it with mad joy, crying and jumping, as J. (Josephine) did too. My servants became very said expressing their desire to follow me.

I had postponed my trip until the next boat, but after discussing the question with the family, we decided to depart the following day and we made our preparations. I wrote to the Commander about or decision and I began to sell all that I owned.

I was flattered to know that the people of Dapitan greatly regretted my departure and the next day many came, including the town band, to bid us goodbye.

Those who were departing were Josephine, my sister N. (Narcisa) and her daughter Ang. (Angélica), Mr. and Mrs. Súnico, my three nephews, six boys and I. We spent the day in my house on the seashore, the house I was building for the hospital.

We embarked at 5:30 in the afternoon on the España. As there were not enough cabins, they put all nine of us in the first class in a single cabin which had six beds or bunks. At midnight of the 31^st July (Friday) we left Dapitan. I have been in that district four years, thirteen days, and a few hours. The C.P.M. (Politico-Military Commander) also came with me.

DUMAGUETE

The following day, Saturday, at dawn, we anchored at Dumaguete, capital of Oriental Negros.

The steamer anchors quite near the shore because of the great depth of the water. Dumaguete spreads out on the beach. There are big houses, some with galvanized iron roofing. The house of a lady, whose name I have forgotten, was outstanding. It is occupied by the government and another one, just begun with many ipil posts.

I went ashore with my family and the C.P.M. I told my family to see the town while the C.P.M. and I paid our respects to Governor Regal whom I met at Dapitan on the way to his destination.

From there we went to see the Captain of the Civil Guard, Mr. Herrero Regidor, judge of the province, who was suffering from ophtalmia which turned out to be conjunctivitis granulosa [Trachoma, which is also called granular conjunctivitis or Egyptian ophthalmia, is a contagious, chronic inflammation of the mucous membranes of the eyes, caused by Chlamydia trachomatis. It is characterized by swelling of the eyelids, sensitivity to light, and eventual scarring of the conjunctivae and corneas of the eyes. - rly]. I met Mr. P., the permanent physician at his house, from whom I learned about many cases and things concerning provincial etiquette. It turned out that while I was going to visit my friend and former classmate Mr. Herrero Regidor, the provincial judge, the operation was set for that afternoon. In fact, I went to visit this gentleman who received me very affectionately, inviting me and my family to spend the day with him. I saw Periquet and I met his family. I called at the house of Mrs. Rufina, a beautiful house, where after four years, I heard the piano expertly played. I observed that the people of Dumaguete are fond of decorating their houses with plants and flowers. In the afternoon I operated on the Captain of the Civil Guard and then we embarked. We saw numerous recruits going to Iligan. They were tied at the elbows and behind them marched the musicians! I met the Inspector of Forests who turned out to be a former classmate of mine.

SUNDAY – CEBÚ

The entrance to Cebú is beautiful. We can see the whole district of San Nicolás, many brick roofs, church towers, and some small vessels. The ship anchored beside a pier, near a garden of katuray, dapdap, and almond trees. Nearby, they told me, were the government houses, that of Mr. Ventura Veloso, and others. Many persons came to the boat out of curiosity and for treatment. After luncheon, the C.P.M. and I went to call on Mr. Riobó, a famous physician who was in town because of a case. At the house of Attorney Mateos, where we looked for him, I met an old couple whom I had known in Madrid, also involved in the Riobó case. We talked about the town. It was said that San Nicolás had separated from Cebú and was not dependent on the Cebú municipal council. They criticized the municipal council and the theater it had built for lacking all the necessary conditions of a good theater, etc. After the visit we went to see the General of Cebú, who received us cordially, but he did not as us to sit down nor did he, himself, sit down.

Although it was Sunday and there could be no unloading, nevertheless unloading was done in the afternoon in order to overtake the mail boat in Manila. In Cebú I did two operations of strabotomy [The Surgical incision of a muscle or tendon of the eye to correct a condition in which the eyes do not point in the same direction – rly], one operation on the ears, and another of a tumor. Many rich and curious persons, relatives of the Chinese, came to consult me. Various passengers embarked, among them Mr. and Mrs. Butler and the physician, Mr. Ortiz. At 11:00 in the morning of the following day, Monday, we left Cebú to go to Iloilo.

The voyage was fine. At the right we saw Mactan, an island famous for what happened to Magellan. The whole afternoon was magnificent. We saw dolphins and we were amused by three of them swimming before the prow of the boat at three or four inches apart with wonderful swiftness and skill due to the movement of their tails. We saw many islands along our way. The next day, in the morning we entered Iloilo, meeting various ships on the way, including Taculin, Cosmopolita, etc. Opposite Iloilo there is an island (Gimaras) where Iloilo families go for picnics.

TUESDAY – ILOILO

The entrance to Iloilo is beautiful. The white city set in water can be seen from afar: a nymph of galvanized iron, a modern creation, poetic in spite of its iron uniform. We saw various vessels with foreign flags. A port pilot met us. We anchored and were tied beside the gunboat Gral. Lezo, which was in front of the house of the consignee. The Gral. Lezo had come from Iligan but stopped in Iloilo for repairs.

We ordered vehicles or quiles drawn by one horse to take us to the Escolta where we bought a traveling cap. We did not, however, find socks for the children.

The liveliness of the Escolta pleased me. We went to Molo to see the church painted by a lad who had never left the locality. The governor’s palace is at the end of the Escolta, on the road to Molo. I was surprised to see all the carts and even the calesas drawn by oxen. It takes one half hour to travel from Iloilo to Molo. We reached Molo. The church is pretty and the interior is not bad, considering that it had been painted by a lad. The paintings are mostly copies of biblical scenes by Gustave Doré. Opposite the church is a big and pretty house belonging to the Lacsons. We returned to the boat on time. Many passengers, about 25, embarked for Manila, among them actors, the aide of the general who came from Iligan with papers and important dispatches, and a pharmacist. We left Iloilo at 12:00 or 1:00 p.m.

TUESDAY – CÁPIZ; WEDNESDAY – ROMBLON

The night was rainy and dark when we arrived at Cápiz or what seemed to us Cápiz. Ships always anchor at a great distance from the mouth of Tibas, they say, where there is a marine corporal who acts as governor, administrator, etc. with regard to the mail. A boat was lowered with the second officer and the steward aboard and we expected it to come back within an hour in order to continue our voyage. But, it was not so. Although it left at about 11:00 o’clock at night, it did not return until the following day, late in the day, because according to what they said, it anchored very far from the shore and it had to row for more than three hours. At Cápiz the passengers do not go ashore except those who will remain there. Neither a trace of the town nor the presence of a human being was seen. A sergeant of the Civil Guard, who, they say, was going to Cuba as a volunteer, embarked.

In a short time we left Cápiz going in the direction of Romblón. At about 3:00 o’clock we sighted the island, very remarkable for its numerous coconut trees planted up to the peak of the mountain. The port of Romblón is beautiful but sad and lonely. From the boat can be seen the mass of marble, plentiful, white, reddish, and grayish. Because of our haste we did not take freight, although there were more than 500 sacks of copra on the beach. In an hour and a half we started en route to Manila.

6 THURSDAY – MANILA

At dawn we were entering Manila Bay, having passed Point Santiago during the night almost without being aware of it. The Bay of Manila is wide but exposed to all the winds. At our starboard, in the distance, we can see Cavite and in front, the Capital, white due to its galvanized iron.

Contrary to our expectations we did not find the mail boat Isla de Luzón, however much we searched for it, and it was because it had departed the day before, at 5:00 o’clock p.m. for the Peninsula.

How many thoughts surged in my mind upon entering the Pasig River again. At the right I saw the port works have accomplished something at last during a period of four years. These works were begun in ’80 or ’81, if I’m not mistaken.

We were met by a launch (Holdfast), bringing a lieutenant of the Veteran Guard, Mr. Sanz, sent by the Captain General to find out about my arrival and take charge of me until further orders from him. After awhile my sisters Lucía, Trinidad, and María, my nephews Antonio, Leoncio and Patrocinio, and my old mother came. Then the commander of the Veteran Guard came with a lieutenant to notify me that Mr. Sanz would remain to keep me company and that at 7:30 they would come to take me to the Commander’s office, and afterwards I could go home.

We spent the day talking, discussing, and playing chess until evening; but at 7:30 the gentleman did not come. In the meantime Sra. Narcisa and Josefina called on me. At 10:15 the gentleman did come and told me that His Excellency had changed my itinerary and had ordered that I should transfer to the cruiser Castilla. This disappointed me much because it deprived me of visiting with my parents. What could I do except to follow orders?

We boarded a boat which took us to the gunboat Otálora, under the command of a young naval ensign called Mr. Antelo, who, although rather thin and homely, turned out to be pleasant and charming. Above all, he knew how to receive people on his little boat. I was displeased and sleepy as we went to the Castilla, which was in Cavite. The weather was bad; the night was dark; it was raining. The young lieutenant of the Veteran Guard who was with us seemed to me a chap who has studied, talked about the importance of the Arabic language in the army because of the proximity of Spain to Africa. I was very sleepy and I could not carry on the conversation.

At last we sighted the Castilla. They called for a steam-launch to which we transferred and from it we boarded the Castilla. Mr. Antelo went ahead; we followed him.

ON BOARD THE CASTILLA

It was the same beautiful boat which I had boarded in Dapitan in October of ’94 when the Captain General visited those shores. It was then used by the First Magistrate of the Islands. It was full of officers; many braids and many sabers. It had a well-tuned orchestra on board to which the chaps in Dapitan listened raptly. It had electric lights. It was on board this ship that His Excellency promised to transfer me to La Unión or Ilocos Sur. About twenty-two months have elapsed since then.

Now I return to it, and in spite of its numerous crew and equipment, it seems to me dark, sad, and dead. I was announced to the Commander who asked me to come in to his office – a suite of small rooms simply but conveniently furnished and with good taste. He asked me to sit down and told me that by order of the Captain General I am detained but not a prisoner on board the ship in order to avoid difficulties from friends and enemies. I replied that I was glad that measures wee being taken to shield me from such displeasures and I only regretted that the boat should be so far away from Manila which prevented me from having the pleasure of seeing my parents who could not come to me on account of the sea. They assigned me a cabin for that night, which was fairly good, with the necessary furnishings, saying they would give me another the next day. Upon going down, I found in the parlor various officers, one of whom attracted my attention because of his stature, his age, and his beard. As I was very sleepy, I fell asleep as soon as I lay down. The next day they changed my cabin, giving me one without a porthole but sufficiently large.

Wednesday – 2 September

At six o’clock in the afternoon I left the Castilla. On board the steam-launch and accompanied by Messrs. De Molini, Picallo, and Puente, I transferred to the Isla de Panay, anchored nearby. Before that, I cordially bade the ship’s officers goodbye.

The Captain (the same man who had been at the Castilla one day) received us, de Molini introducing me. He seems to be amiable, charming, and frank, if I am not mistaken. He ordered that I be shown my cabin, and, frankly speaking, the cabin given me could not be better; better than those in the boats of the Messageries Maritimes. I have a cabin all to myself. I am satisfied with the ship and, according to my first impression, it seems to be good.

“The Commander, Mr. Enrique Santaló, when I bade him goodbye, gave me some good advice. I really esteem him and I will try to follow that advice. I will do even more than what he advised me.

From the ship’s roundhouse I saw the lights of Manila in the distance, the lights of the Castilla can hardly be seen; I can tell the Cristina because of the insignia of the Rear Admiral: two lights on the pole. May God will that there be no more disturbances this night. Unhappy countrymen who so madly plunge themselves into death. They say that Imus has been attacked.

Thursday – 3

Early in the morning, the boat left Cañacao, going in the direction of Manila. Shortly after launches and small steamers bringing passengers came. They changed my cabin, giving me number 22, an inside cabin but larger and with a sofa. Among the passengers who have arrived, I recognize Mr. P. Roxas and the passengers who have arrived, I recognize Mr. P. Roxas and his son Periquin, now grown-up; an ensign, Piña, a Cuban, and a landowner who were my traveling companions in the España. I believe that María Tuason is also among them, the one who is married to the Pájaro Verde [01] (Green Bird). Among the passengers, however, they cannot tell who might be the husband. In one of the launches that came I saw Mr. Pedro A. Paterno who was accompanying a brother-in-law of his named Mr. Manuel Piñeyro.

This gentleman, with whom later I spoke, is ill of gastritis; this is the cause of his intense anemia which, in turn, is the cause of his insomnia. His physicians have been giving him benzonaphtol, pepsin, bismuth, etc.

As soon as the ship has left the port, the rugs are put away, the cushions are covered etc. and the boat becomes ugly, but economical. The food is middling and they do not change the table silverware. The waiter says: “Sir, I suggest that you keep your silverware, otherwise you may contract a mouth disease.” Imagine, they are all thrown into a common vessel!!!

Upon this warning I do not change my silverware. It seems that many military officers are coming, judging by the braided caps they are carrying. A sick Jesuit brother is on board. He is accompanied by a priest who has little of the look of a Jesuit. The friar has not come.

Friday – 4

The Jesuit priest says that it seems that I am being avoided for it is believed that I am the cause of the disturbances in Manila. [02] I laugh at the naiveté and innocence of these individuals. Today I have talked with a young Aragonite student who is going to Madrid. He told me, among other things, that more than 600 have been shot. The Cuban has told me something about [General] Martinez Campos [Appointed Governor], [José] Marti [revolutionary Cuban insurgent and poet], and [General Juan] Salcedo [led the forces which killed Marti in battle on 21^st of May, 1895 in the Battle of Dos Rios - rly], which has filled me with amazement. I could hardly believe it. The Roxases have eaten in the dining room. I eat at the captain’s table. At night, at 7:30, they gambled and it seems that the Pájaro Verde won. We have traveled 309.

Saturday – 5

The day was good. A young, charming passenger of the third class played the piano and sang. I saw the insane; he is a captain of the Military Administration. At night the Jesuit told me about poor Anacleto. According to what they say, he died of a heart ailment.

A young man became terribly drunk. H was meddling with everybody and wanted to hit a passenger and tried to enter a lady’s cabin. The reason why he wanted to hit him was because he did not lift up his cap. He said he was an army officer. We have traveled 300 miles.

Sunday – 6

There was a Mass but I did not hear it because I did not know there was going to be one. We met two ships. Nothing notable occurred today, except the ice-cream. We mad 311 miles. They say that tomorrow we shall arrive at Singapore.

Monday – 7

Today no incidents occurred. In the afternoon we met a large ship which was going in the opposite direction. We saw islands of the Natuna group. At 5:00 we saw the lighthouse; at 8:00 o’clock we anchored outside of Singapore, for we could not enter, being nighttime. Singapore could be seen girded with a string of lights. They played cards and it seems that a player, having won, withdrew. A gentleman with side whiskers and I have been talking about Philippine affairs.

Tuesday – 8

In the morning we slowly entered Singapore and we docked beside the wooden pier. The peddlers do not go on board but display their goods on the pier. I have observed some changes. There are more Chinese merchants and fewer Indian. Lacquer objects and silk handkerchiefs. I bought a Chinese gown. The Roxases went down and did not return. It is said that they received a telegram. We left Singapore at 1:00 o’clock in the afternoon. Singapore has changed much since I saw it for the first time in 1882.

Wednesday – 9

At about 4:30 p.m. the Yarra M.M. passed by us yesterday. It was navigating at about 30 miles per minute more than we. At night there was a hint of a concert but it was marred by the rudeness of a passenger.

Thursday – 10

It has begun to rain and the weather is bad.

Friday – 11

Bad weather continues

Saturday – 12

The rocking continues but I am not very seasick. There are still many seasick persons. The Jesuits have not shown up.

Sunday – 13

At 4:00 o’clock we began to sight land and at night, at 11:00 o’clock, we anchored at Colombo. The lights and activity in Colombo impressed me as something of a novelty. The port construction is already finished with the breakwater very well built.

Monday – 14

The morning brought us surprises. In the port the large buildings and warehouses with brick roofing. Numerous vessels and steamships: One of the Messageries, one German, and one Japanese, among many. At 9:00 o’clock a beautiful ship, the Orotava of the English Mail P.S.N.C. with numerous passengers docked. The Indian divers now know a song and dance which before they did not know. They sell fewer things on board. At 12:00 o’clock we left Colombo for Aden. At night the sick Jesuit worsened and the ship’s doctor gave him up.

Tuesday – 15

The weather has considerably improved. The patient has taken a bath but continues in a grave condition. He has eaten. At night we passed by the Maldive and Laccadive islands. I saw the lighthouse of Minicoy.

Wednesday – 16

The weather could not be better. Brilliant sky, calm sea. In the afternoon there is a shower. The patient’s condition remains grave.

Thursday – 17

Good weather prevails. There is nothing new. I read in the Bible. The patient has no fever and does not vomit anything except bile.

Friday – 18

Today we have made 314 miles and it seems that we lack only 870 miles to reach Aden. Mr. Utor told me a very funny story. It seems that there is a story circulating among the passengers that I said in some toast of which I know nothing that: “The most beautiful day for the Philippines will be that when we can drink wine from Spanish skulls.” (!!!) And so . . . intelligent are some people that they believe it! At first it made me laugh much, but afterward I felt sorry for the Spaniards who swallowed such idiotic nonsense.

Saturday – 19

It is cool. At 1:15 in the afternoon the insane passenger died. His name was Cecilio and he was Captain of the Military Administration. They said that he lost his mind as a result of his two-month arrest, a penalty imposed upon him by General Parrado in Iligan; and for this reason, in his outbursts, he cursed General Parrado. He came on board wearing a madman’s gown and occupied a cabin where he spent the nights howling and cursing General Parrado. Then they moved him and, without much ado, it was learned that he died. Placed in a box with some 16 pieces of ingots he was dropped into the sea at 2:00 o’clock on Sunday morning. The priest, the military men, and others attended the funeral.

Sunday – 20

At dawn it was very cold, the boat was rocking. The fog compelled the ship to reduce its speed to one fourth. At 12:00 o’clock we entered Guardafui and the sea gradually grew calmer. At night the moon came out and it was the most delightful night on board, although the wind hardly blew and it was warm. The ship did not rock a bit. My patient has become worse for having partaken of Flemish butter.

Monday – 21

It is warm; the sea is calm. We arrive at Aden at 4:30 o’clock in the afternoon. The English have advanced much; there are more buildings. I don’t know this port. We load coal and we are not going to touch Port Said. The patient has improved much. We left at 3:00 o’clock in the morning of Tuesday with a beautiful moon.

Tuesday – 22

It has been warm. We had a calm sea. We passed near Perim, which is fortified. The patient has come up to the deck. Old man Cabanyes continues to be impatient and displeased. We are not stopping at Port Said because of the cholera outbreak but we will touch Malta.

Wednesday – 23

The heat is more intense than ever. The water’s temperature is high. Old man Cabanyes is more peevish than ever on account of the scandals aboard between men and women passengers. He believes that his wife will do the same thing and, in fact, she is doing it, as other passengers tell me.

We saw more than ten waterspouts.

Thursday – 24

The heat continues. A woman gets sick and they call me. She has renal colic. I soothe her with hot baths and an injection of morphine. I consult with the Captain about the case and he advises me that it is better that the ship’s physician attend her. Happenings to the ship’s physician. The patient has weakened very much. I believe she will not reach Suez. At night there was a quarrel between two young men who are rivals for the hand of a young female passenger.

Friday – 25

The heat has lessened. I have dreamed that the patient has died, but he is still alive. In the afternoon, at 4:25, we met the Isla de Luzón loaded with soldiers. The English government has fortified the Islands of the Soldiers. At night we saw a beautiful red and white lighthouse at the larboard [the left side of a ship to one facing the bow or nose – rly]. The brother is very grave.

Saturday – 26

Today at 4:00 o’clock in the morning, the sick man died; at 2:00 o’clock I attended his extreme unction. They say that he will be dropped into the sea at 9:00 o’clock. At 7:30 o’clock I saw the corpse inside a box covered with canvas. The cover of the box has cracks so that the water would seep through. The man’s name was Domingo Carrió. At 11:00 o’clock we anchored in front of Suez. From afar the look of the town surprised us: Minarets, box-shaped houses, the poles of the vessels, trees, etc. It seemed as if it were a city rising magically from the desert and the sea. The view before us was enchanting. The bare mountains on both sides illumined by the sun in a translucent sky seemed to be gilded with a light tint of gray and violet by way of chiaroscuro [artistic term regarding shadows in a painting – rly]. The sea is of the purest blue, especially where it touches the shore; it emphasizes the yellowish sand. Launches came bringing officials to inspect the ship’s papers, but they did not go aboard because the Captain refused to have any contact with the land on account of the cholera epidemic. Many small vessels manned by three or five Egyptians, fair skinned, and in white or blue gowns, brought fruits, rosaries, polyparies [clusters of coral ? - rly], and pictures for sale. They were unable to not able, however, to sell their wares. Among the fruits sold were grapes, apples, and dates. I also saw coral rosaries, fish skins with spines, little boats of mother-of-pearl, cards, etc. At 2:00 p.m. the pilot arrived and we entered the Canal. I was much surprised by the town at the entrance which seemed new to me. The beautiful houses looked like palaces, trees along the streets, and a long promenade with a double border of trees along the length of the left bank. I noted also the solidly built piers of stone and the sides of the Canal protected by rectangular stories piled up without cement or mortar but supported with stakes. On the left bank we saw loose camels. Various stations or groups of three or four bungalows surrounded with trees and a palm tree here and thee and a windmill, perhaps used for getting water. We saw the railroad leading to Port Said. At night, at about 7:00 o’clock, we anchored in Bitter Lake.

Sunday – 27

It is cold this morning. At 6:00 o’clock we continued our voyage. The trip is very pleasant. Beautiful stations on the left bank composed mostly of three low houses surrounded with trees; I see picturesque floating houses of two stories with grills and flowers, especially near Ismailia. This town has grown very much. We met English, German, and Italian ships. The Archimede is carrying Italian soldiers to Abyssinia. Their uniform is yellowish gray like that of the English in Borneo, but they wear a red fez. They saluted us gaily with a bugle. We also met the German mail boat Preussen, a beautiful ship, painted white, and full of passengers. There were many sand-spouts and mirages on the right bank. In some sections they have begun planting date palms, flame trees, and cactus. The ship runs at a speed of 6 miles per hour. The canal is more or less 87 miles long. We arrived at Port Said at about 4:00 o’clock. I was impressed by it; it seemed to me that it has greatly progressed. Near the pier there is a new palace, recently finished, with ogival arches [An ogival arch is a pointed, or Gothic, arch - rly] in the Persian style. They say that the palace is for the Khedive [The Khedive was one of the Turkish viceroys who ruled Egypt between 1867 and 1914 - rly]. There are many docked ships, mostly English, two Germans, Senta and Gerda; and one Italian, Umberto I. There are many Englishmen and Englishwomen boating; two Englishwomen were rowing and an Englishman was steering the boat. There are many dolphins in the port. The pier is very lively with Egyptians, Arabs, Frenchmen, Englishmen, Italians, etc. We departed at 5:30 o’clock, sailing along a long breakwater at the right bank.

At the luncheon they told me that, according to a telegram Francisco Roxas, Genato, and Osorio have been shot. Who is this Osorio? May God have mercy on them! It is said that 6,000 soldiers were sent to Manila.

Monday – 28

The Mediterranean is a little rough but the boat does not rock. They have given me bad news which, if true, would make me doubt everything. In the afternoon the wind rose and the sky became dark.

Tuesday – 29

Today is cooler; there is more wind, but the sky is clearer. In the afternoon the ship began to rock a great deal. There are people on board who do nothing but slander me and invent fanciful stories about me. I’m going to become a legendary personage. Friends and enemies invent fabulous stories which elevate me and improbable stories to harm me and they find people who are considered educated who believe them. They say that San Roque (Cavite) has been bombarded.

Wednesday – 30

The cool weather continues. The sea has become very calm. At 4:00 p.m. I receive a note from the Captain in which he tells me:

“My dear Sir; I have ordered that you should go down to your cabin after dinner and remain there until I send you a new order which will probably be after we have left Malta.”

Yours sincerely,

A. Alemany,

Captain of Isla de Panay”

In reply I said that I was ready to obey his order, but I begged him to tell me the reason for it. He sent me the following reply:

“This measure is due to the fact that various passengers have said that you are planning to stay behind in Malta.

“I believe that your promises are formal and this measure will not inconvenience you.

Yours . . .

A. Alemany

I replied that I regretted that he should give credence to the gossip of people who unashamedly lie.

At about 6:25 we anchored near Malta, a few meters from the shore. I saw through a tiny window the beautiful view of the port, with its monumental and magnificent castle in three levels, white, illumined by the lingering afternoon lights. On an eminence formed by white rocks stood three buildings which looked like Greek temples, presenting an enchanting group. On both sides of the castle and on a lower level spread out the town whose lights are beginning to kindle. The vessels which approached our ship looked like gondolas, though without indented edges. It seems that the ship will depart at 1:00 o’clock in the morning.

There are aboard people so low and infamous that they do not scorn calumny. One would humiliate himself in slapping them; perhaps, perhaps one might allow himself to kick them, if he has many pairs of shoes.

Thursday – 1^st October

We left Malta at 2:00 o’clock in the morning. A day without news for me as I did not leave the cabin. Serafin visited me twice. One tried to steal my papers and came to my cabin while I was asleep. I caught a steward quietly entering my cabin and the chief steward peeping through the skylight.

Friday – 2

The day is uneventful. At night the boat rocked, perhaps because it was in the Gulf of Lyon.

Saturday – 3

At 10:00 in the morning we arrived at Barcelona. It has been exactly a 30 days voyage. We were placed under observation for three days and three pairs of civil guards were assigned to watch me and I don’t understand why for I am in Spain. The Captain says that he no longer has charge of me but the Captain General. I write to Mr. Despujol. The Captain delivers 50 pesos to me. Ideas of a passenger who is fond of looking after me. I’m going to believe in the end that I’m a dangerous person. This amuses me. I hear conversations.

Sunday – 4

At 6:00 o’clock in the morning many cannon shots awaken us. It seems that they are in honor of the feast of St. Francis of Assisi. At 12:00 o’clock I counted as many as 31 canon shots and at 6:00 there were again as many. At night there was a concert in the dining room which could be heard in my cabin.

Monday – 5

The day begins better and I don’t hear so much nonsense. The day passed without any disagreeable incident. They collected the soiled clothes to fumigate them. It is said that we will go ashore tomorrow.

Tuesday – 6

At 3:00 o’clock in the morning, the sergeant awoke me to tell me to get dressed and have my luggage ready for we were leaving. I asked him where we were going and he said that he did not know, but a captain would come. I took coffee, put my two valises in order and waited. At 4:00 o’clock a small steam-launch arrived and in it I saw two men: one military officer and another in civilian clothing. The port had electric lights. We disembarked and the officer told me that I should carry my luggage until Monjuich [03] because the guards should not carry anything. I answered them that I could not; therefore, he replied, I should leave them behind. At last I had to carry them and we walked a long while, I, looking for anybody willing to carry them. The two men rode on horseback and thus we went. As we were climbing the slope of Monjuich, we met a workman or coal carrier on his way to the pier. I asked him if he would like to carry my luggage for two pesos and he agreed. We climbed the slope without my stopping. We reached Monjuich at 5:00 o’clock sharp. We waited there and we were received by a captain who seemed to be more refined and attentive than the one who was accompanying me. They inspected my luggage carefully and afterward they conducted me to prison No. 11, assigned to officers. The Captain, himself, told me that when the General awoke, they would present me to him and I could talk with him.

My prison is composed of a long hall, a parlor with one table and one arm-chair, and two alcoves in one of which there are one bed, one table, and a washstand.

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[01] Pseudonym of a Spanish journalist whose name was Vicente García y Valdez.

[02] The beginning of the Philippine Revolution of 1896.

[03] Also Montjuich. This is a fortress guarding the city.